Memories of Ten Mile Lake
By
Eloise Ball Allensworth Ó1989, 2001. Edited by Jeremy Franklin
I spent my fourth birthday,
June 20, 1913, on the train headed for the cool Northwoods of Minnesota. My mother, Roslyn Steinke Ball, had nursed
her father through terminal cancer that spring and the doctor told her that the
family she should get out of the tortuous Iowa heat that summer. Judge Spurrier of Des Moines rented us our
first cabin on Norway Lake near Pine River.
My Grandmother Steinke, age 73, came with us. I think the trip was for
her as much as for my mother and she loved it.
The next summer we stayed a
short time on Lake Clark near Hubert, Minnesota. Later that summer we moved back to Norway Lake and bought the
cabin from Judge Spurrier. While living
on Lake Clark my parents took a trip "up the creek" to Lake Nisswa through
nine lakes--from Clark to Nisswa, then Le Roy, Bass, Sand, Upper Gull,
Kilpatrick, and Margaret. Gull is the
biggest in this chain and fourteen miles long.
My father said there was good fishing in Ponto and Sand Lake. On one fishing trip to Lake Ada they went by horse and buggy over a corduroy road.
These roads were made by placing logs and brush crosswise and covering them
with sand and gravel. At that time many of the farmers in the area used yoke of
oxen to work the land.
Mother said the first time
she saw Father row across the lake to take Norway Brook to town (Pine River)
she thought she would never see him again.
Eventually Father mastered the art of paddling in a straight line
instead of circles in the genuine birch bark Indian canoe.
Mr. Meredith was superintendent of the public schools in Boone, Iowa where my father was principal of the high school. In the summer of 1914 he wrote to my father asking him to look at some property on Ten Mile Lake. It was part of the sand beach just south of the Christie-Kubo property. While there, my father mentioned what a beautiful point lay across the lake where the big lake and Long’s bay merge. That winter Mr. Forbes wrote to Father that the point he admired had been put on the market. He said it contained about twelve acres and was valued a $375. Later when it was surveyed it was found to contain nearly thirty-three acres. My father borrowed some money from the teachers at the high school and bought the tract without ever walking over it.
Father notes in one of his
early photo albums:
Monday morning, June 21,
1915, leaving our cottage at Norway Lake for Ten Mile, we portered the baggage
through Norway creek to Pine Rive. From Pine River we went by Ford to
Hackensack. Some load too—Gudmundson, one of the teachers from the Boone high
school, Wideman, the real estate man, and driver and Ball, not to speak of the
“porto” [a
small motor] and a five gallon can of gasoline. And the roads might have
been better. At Hackensack we took a launch and finished the trip by water.
They stayed across the lake in the Bush cabin. Mr. Bush was a conductor on the Minnesota International line, which we called the Mosquito and Insect line. Mr. Bush had fallen in love with the view of the lake down the bay as he passed by on train every day. The DeLurys also had a cabin close to the one owned by Mr. Bush.
The men used the
“thoroughfare” as they called it (Little Boy River) that summer from the
building site to Hackensack for provisions. The lumber, supplies, and furniture
were shipped by freight train. The men had to be at Ten Mile Station when the
train went through. It didn’t come on the first day although they waited all
day. Father writes:
The next day the lumber
came—nearly a carload of it. There being no railroad siding, we had to unload
it while the train waited. Five of us and two brakemen got it out of the car in
about an hour. Our furnititure and millwork was in another car-- we piled it all in neat piles between the
track and the lake and left it until morning. These rafts, two of them were 8
feet x 16 feet and loaded from four to five feet high, nearly 5000 ft of lumber
in each—about 25,000 feet of lumber and furnishings. At 4:30PM the rafts were
completed, furniture loaded on top ready to hitch the Porto on. Arrived at the
Gitchee Gummee Beach about 7:45PM; tied up the rafts and left them ‘til
morning.
Later, two of the men, Easter and Salvason, left for home and Ferdinand Daehler and Harris Meredith (son of Dr. Meredith) arrived. Because Daehler was industrial arts teacher at the high school where Father was principal, he was chief foreman of the carpenter squad. He built the fireplace in the first cabin. When the first cabin was finished that summer the Meredith family moved in.
When I went to the station to
meet the Merediths, this is the bunch I saw piling off the train. If I should
attempt to name them, they would run like this: Mr. and Mrs. Meredith and Lois,
their daughter (Harris, their son was already with us), Mrs. Ball, Eloise [author],
and Grandmother Steinke (75 yrs old), “Doc” Whitehill, and Tom Johnston. Mrs.
Gudmundson and Elin had come some time before, so our crowd was complete and
the two houses were full!
I have never been able to
figure out how we all slept in those two small cabins. Each consisted of one
small screened-in front porch, one general purpose room (living, dining, and
sleeping), a bedroom, and kitchen. The second of these two cabins still exists
in its original state and belongs to my sister [deceased] Zelda Ball Johnson’s
family. The original cottage has been remodeled and is owned my by sister,
Kathryn Ball Helscher.
The point at the “L” of the
big lake and Long’s bay made a safe harbor for the boats. They were always safe
from the “big blows” since most of our heavy storms originate out of the
southwest. The path from the point to all the cabins was called “Lumberjack
Trail.” It was used by all the beach residents until they built safe moorings
in front of their own cabins. Our first boats were wooden flat-bottoms except
for a little riverboat we brought with us from Norway Lake. Our motors were
small outboards, a Porto and a Sears Roebuck Motorgo. The latter was the more
reliable, using a three cell battery in a black box which we always carried to
the house to keep dry. Mother became an expert at handling it—even cranking the
flywheel which was quite small with a little knob on top to pull. I soon
learned to operate it too.
The summer of 1916 was a
busy one. The Boone people began to further populate the point. Father must have been a good salesman.
Several families lived in house-tents with floors that summer before they built
their cabins. These included Dr. L.A. Bassett (a surgeon) and his wife, Dr.
(general practitioner) and Mrs. Margaret Whitehill with daughter Charlotte,
Col. Harry Canfield (Spanish American war veteran) and his two sisters, Kate
Canfield and Lucy Schuneman, Jones and Cobb, J. B. Hughes (photographer), and
Rev. S.A. Munneke (Presbyterian minister). The only cabins still owned by the
original families belonged to the Munneke family and the Ball girls, Kathryn
Helscher, Zelda Johnson, and myself-- Eloise Allensworth.
Other Boone people settling
on the point soon after included J. C. Manville, wife Bessie, and three sons
Buddy, Sonny, and Bill. They shared the cabin with Warren Hansen and Gertrude,
his wife. Gertrude and Bessie were sisters. J.C. worked with the YMCA in Boone
and Warren worked with a Scandanavian newspaper in Cedar Rapids. The two
families bought the first cabin on the beach near the point. Father later
bought the cabin back and it is now owned by Kathryn Ball Helscher. The next
little cabin was rented for many years by Walter Canier’s family from Boone,
where he owned a shoe store. They had two adopted children, Dick and Patricia.
They later built a log cabin on the point beyond Thomas’ sand beach. Zelda Ball Johnson’s family now owns our old
family cabin. After my parents died she bought the Hyde cabin across the bay
and brought it over on the ice in about 1961. It is on a lot between the “rent”
cabin and the old family cabin that they own.
Rev. Munneke’s small cabin
was built next, then the Whitehill’s. Dr. Munneke had four boys-- Albert,
Robert, Lester, and Edward. Lester now owns the cabin [his son, Rev. Bob
Munneke owns it in 2001] and still comes every summer. The Whitehills sold
their cabin to Russell and Leslie Mackey of Boone but the Mackeys sold it to
David Lee and his sister of Minneapolis. Next to them is the log cabin built in
1919 by Dr. Bassett several years after he built his original cabin on the
hill. He always used to say if anyone on the beach put in a telephone, he would
move! Dr. and Mrs. Reddy of Ames, IA bought the Jones-Cobb place. Their
daughter, Polly Staunton of Florida, purchased it from them. The J.B. Hughes’
cabin was sold to Mr. Zimbeck (a grocer), both of Boone. The original building
was bulldozed by the present owners, Franz and Jeannie Flath of Fridley, MN.
They have replaced it with a year-round house. The last cabin on the beach as
it was originally settled belonged to the Canfields of Boone. They originally
had a tent-house. Later the cookhouse was built before erecting a log cabin.
Uncle Harry Canfield was a colonel in the Spanish American war. The Thurmans of
Iowa owned his cabin next but it was frequently used by Esther Thurman Drago
and her family. One of the relatively new cabins on this beach was built in
1969 by my husband Jack and me. It rests on the knoll next to our old family
cabin. This spot was my favorite playground as I grew up, particularly since it
had the largest white pine tree in the area. I was greatly saddened when it was
struck by lightning several years ago and slowly died.
When each of the Ball girls
graduated from college, Father and Mother gave us some of the Ten Mile
property. Mine adjoins the family cabin lots. My sister, Kathryn, owns the
property next to mine extending to the Munneke’s. Zelda owned the three lots
beyond Canfield’s to the lilypond. She later sold them to the Ducharmes of
Minneapolis who built in 1979.
****************************************************************
In those early days we had
no car so we had to travel by train. I can still hear the conductor calling the
names of the towns as we left Brainard… “Nisswa—Pequot—Jenkins—Pine
River—Mildred—Backus—Haaaaackensaaaaaack---Ten Mile!!” By that time I was so
excited I could hardly stand it. The railroad had a platform built where we got
off at our stop. Later they built a little red station with a big sign for Ten
Mile Lake. Mr. Long owned the property
along the lake where the train stopped. As I remember, Mr. Long lived there
year-round in his log cabin built into the side of the hill. He would load us
into his launch and bring us to our cabin. I also remember sometimes getting
off the train in Hackensack to buy our provisions before we went out to the
lake. Mr. Charley Wood had the General Store there. When we had completed our
purchases—a sizable order—Charley would load us into his Model T and drive us
to the Ten Mile station where we would complete our journey with Mr. Long in
his launch-- rain or shine! For the rest of the summer we would take the
thoroughfare to Birch Lake and Hackensack for our supplies and mail.
Later in the 1920’s my father
would bring us to Ten Mile, help us get settled, and go back to Iowa or St.
Louis to teach, leaving Mother with my two sisters and me. Then when we needed
to go to town she would rev up the Motor Go and we would catch the 9:00AM
southbound train to Hackensack. Again, Charley Wood brought us back to Ten Mile
station and away we’d go in our little boat and motor. The boat landing there
at Long’s place always fascinated me. It was a relic of the lumbering days,
obviously a long term resident of the lake. It was made of great huge pine logs
that had been leveled off and lashed together with huge logging chains. It was
covered with beautiful velvety green moss and was very slippery. It was very
large—probably about twenty by thirty feet floating in the water but attached
to the shore. The ice didn’t seem to bother it, unlike smaller docks elsewhere
on the lake. This was where we always tied up our boats when we went to town.
***************************************************************
There was great camaraderie
among the beach people. If someone was going to town, he would check to see if
anyone needed anything and always would bring back the mail for those who
desired it. Mother said she never felt alone or afraid because there was always
someone on the beach.
Living conditions were very
primitive in those early days. Most of the cabins had fireplaces made of the
plentiful lakeshore rock and lined with firebrick. Some were more efficient and
some had a tendency to smoke, depending on the skill of the builder. We always
had wood-burning cook stoves. When gas stoves became popular Father shipped our
fine wood-burning range to the lake since it worked fine if there was enough
split, dry wood. It kept Father busy chopping and splitting enough to satisfy
the hungry firebox as wells the Jack-pine appetites that developed in the brisk
air. Nothing aggravated Mother more than to have a sluggish fire when she was
trying to make a blueberry pie or fry a batch of freshly caught fish. There
were no iceboxes—instead we had a hole in the ground lined either with rocks
laid in cement or a plain cement wall. Our’s was under the kitchen porch
covered with a trap door. It was always my chore to climb down and get the
milk, butter, eggs, etc. Later we brought a big old ice box from home and we
bought ice from Mr. Long or later across the lake at Christie’s. In the winter
they cut ice from the lake and stored it in sawdust in a large shed. That was a
great improvement because then we could even have ice cream if we wanted to take
time to crank the freezer.
One would think that being
so close to the lake, we would not have trouble getting drinking water. Our
first well was easy. They drove a sandpoint down about twenty feet and got good
water without too much iron in it. All it needed was a little priming water to
get it started. This little hand pump is still there between the first two
cabins. When Father built the larger family cabin up the trail he could not get
good water although they tried in several places. It was not until the early
1950’s were they able to find good water close to the kitchen. So for about 30
years we carried our drinking water from the little hand pump down the path
about a block away. We used lake water for all other purposes. Mother did all
our laundry by hand in two big wash tubs and it was my chore to carry the pails
of water from the dock to the washstand Father built for her on the kitchen
porch. Some people used lake water entirely for many years with apparent
safety. Even now the lake water is probably safe to drink. The Ten Mile Lake
Association monitors it regularly. Since there was no plumbing, the house out
back (better known as the “biffie”) was a necessity. It had to be moved at
regular intervals. And, as the family grew the “little house” grew from one
hole to three!
Water safety required life
preservers since many of the lake residents and visitors did not know how to
swim. The early life preservers were clumsy affairs made of cork blocks
enclosed with canvas. They had straps to go over your shoulders and the
contraption wrapped around you from under your armpits to your lower waist. It
was not much good for swimming but would keep you afloat. The little children
used “water wings” that we blew up and slipped under our arms with the inflated
wings to support us. Mr. Crary was a swimming instructor at the YMCA in Boone.
He can be credited for teaching many of the kids on the beach the finer points
in the art of swimming.
The boats always had to be
put away for the winter. We rolled them up out of the water on logs. Later
Father made a travois fastened to the car to haul them into the yard for
storage and turned them upside-down for the winter. No one ever bothered them.
The next summer they were put back in the lake where they had to soak for several
days so they wouldn't leak. Some years they had to be caulked and painted
first, so we would be without transportation for a while.
We had great fun with those
flat -bottom boats when we were swimming. When turned over they made good
diving rafts and underneath there was always a pocket of air where we could
hide. Later, when we were proficient swimmers, we went down the
"Lumberjack Trail" to the point. There is an interesting formation of
shifting sand that drops immediately off the shore into thirty to forty feet of
water. It was a wonderful place to dive off the shore. We had many rowdy,
rollicking times there and got acquainted with the Hyde boys, George, Collin
and Lem (his real name is Lewis but he couldn't spell it!) from the point
across the bay. They frequently had visiting companions from Minneapolis who
made it even more interesting. The Hyde and Ball families made lifelong friends
through this association.
The Hyde cabin was built on
property owned by Miss Johnston who had a cabin directly across from our point
close to Bill Opitz. Hers was called Hi-jo-te-pe, named for her co-owners:
Hicks, Johnston, Tearse, and Peck. I think they had been canteen workers
together in World War I. We always called them the "Nurses". I
believe that later Miss Johnston bought out the others.
Under my favorite big white
pine tree on the knoll near our cabin we had a teepee for playing Indians. The
tree was one of the last vestiges of the great pine forest that had surrounded
the lake before the lumber barons moved in. It was over one hundred years old
when the big white pine was fatally injured by a bolt of lightning. It was an
earth-shaking experience! These woods were a natural setting for playing
Indians. The Munneke boys, Albert, Robert, and Lester, were a part of our
Indian games. I remember being tied to a tree and threatened with scalping. I
believe Albert, the oldest brother, rescued me. Another of our long-term
projects was building cities on the ice bank along the shore. We built the log
cabins out of freshly cut poplar or alder sticks and made cars with sawed
broomstick wheels. They were about 1/4" thick and nailed to a small
rectangular block of wood covered with bits of roofing material. They made
slick limousines. We landscaped the yards with velvety green moss. We also
built harbors along the shore for our homemade boats. Highways were constructed
with sand and pebbles, sometimes mixed with a little cement. We even had wooden
bridges. Lester and Robert became very expansive with the use of cement and
some remnants can still be seen along their beach.
We called the shore beyond
the Canfield cabin Agate Beach. We collected the agates and used them for
money. Several years ago Laurence Flath put some of mine through his tumbler
one winter in their basement of his home in Minneapolis. I now have the
beautifully polished stones on my living room table at home in San Antonio to
remind me of those happy days. Instead of "worry beads" they are my
"happy stones!"
In the evening the young
people on the beach would gather at one of the cabins for games, including
"wink,” hearts, rummy, flinch, etc. When the "rent” cabin was vacant
we could play there without disturbing the rest of the beach people with our
robust hilarity. Or, if there was a full moon on a quiet night we would take
our phonograph and favorite records in the boat and drift in the moon’s path.
One of my favorites was "Moonlight and Roses." What could be more
romantic?
Climbing the Birch Lake fire
tower was a true test of bravery. I think it was about ninety feet high (at
least it seemed that way) with a ladder enclosed in a half-cylinder of wire
netting. I remember the bruises I got on my shins because I kept knocking them
on the rungs of the ladder. If you had nerve enough to climb to the top, you
were awarded a certificate of membership in the Ancient and Honorable Order of
Squirrels. I made it!
If the lake was calm on
Sunday, one of the great excursions by the Boone colony was a trip to Mrs.
Robinson’s Resort dining room for dinner. I think it was called Klose-to-Nature
Kamp on the island at the far south end of the lake. The trip was a great
flotilla--some boats towing others and some in launches. The ladies had
chair-backs on the boat seats and used umbrellas to shield themselves from the
sun, making quite an impressive procession. Mrs. Robinson’s dining room was a
great attraction for the children who loved all the stuffed animals and birds
perching on the huge birch logs that supported the roof. It was a great
calamity when it burned down and was never rebuilt. The island is now connected
to the mainland by a built up road.
**********************************************************
About 1917 or 1918 the
Scenic Highway was constructed, now known as "old 19," allowing many
of the families to drive from Iowa. The road comes close to the lake along the
sand beach across from Boone Point. When the travelers arrived by car, they
would gather on the shore and "you-hoo" for someone to come and get
them, usually my Father. He felt responsible since he had developed the area
and was there from early June until the last of August . There was much
excitement when we had new arrivals and everyone pitched in and helped them
across the lake with their luggage and provisions. They parked their cars near
the spot where Bill Opitz built his log cabin. Then in 1919 a group of the
beach members built an eight-stall garage on a little plot of land behind his
house. That same summer, before it was finished, a high wind blew the garage
down on the cars. Three cars were caught under the collapsed roof. Father says
in the album "It took all the men on the beach to raise it so the cars
could be removed. Fortunately there was very little damage to the cars.”
********************************************************
During the First World War Father worked for the YMCA in Boone.
When the war was over he went to work with the Veterans Administration and we
moved to St. Louis, Mo. Then in 1920 we moved back to Cedar Rapids, IA. He
realized the V.A. would gradually close down, so he decided to go back to
school to get his Masters degree in Social Studies at the University of Iowa. I
don't remember too much about those years except we always got to the lake. The
summer of 1923 while we were there, he received a telegram from Dr. Walter
Cocking whom he had known at the University of Iowa, offering him a job in the
public schools in San Antonio, Texas. Texas seemed like another world, totally
unknown --and so far away! But Mr. Harlow, an old friend of Father's, told him
he owed it to his family to spend at least a year in San Antonio. He had been
stationed there during the war and was very impressed with its beauty, charm,
and history. I can remember walking up and down the Hackensack railroad station
platform that August day while Mother and Father tried to make up their minds
to move some 1500 miles from our beloved Ten Mile. Soon after, Father sent the
telegram from the station accepting the position as Director of Social Studies
in the Junior Schools of San Antonio. He reported for work the first of
September and we followed in October. We wondered if we would ever be able to
go back to our summer retreat.
That winter Father bought
our first car, a second-hand Reo open touring car. Now we could travel! Those
early trips are a story all their own. We camped out with a tent that had a
flap that went over the top of the car. It was big enough for three folding
camp cots for Mother, Father, and I while my sisters slept in the car. Roads
were just being built for cross-country travel so we struggled through mud,
drifting sand, detours of many miles, and flat tires. "Filling
stations" began allowing travelers to camp on their property and offered
water, lights, and outside toilets. Some enterprising towns provided city park
camping. With good weather we could make the trip from Texas in five or six
days, but we still had to leave the car across the lake and boat across the
water to the cabin. It was twenty-six more years before we could go by car to
the cabin. This momentous event finally occurred 1949. Father writes,
After
34 years of access only across a half a mile of water … it seems strange indeed
to be able to drive a car up to the door-- almost prosaic procedure to load and
unload our duffle—but romance must not be permitted to block progress. The age
of the car has caught up with us--things ain’t what they used to be.
That same year while the bulldozer was still there building the road, we had the ice bank removed in front of the family cabin, much to my dismay.
*************************************************************
The early fishing days were
exciting. While waiting for the freight train to arrive with the lumber the
summer of 1915, Father caught a 7 1/2lb northern pike. The largest northern
caught that summer was a 9 pounder. Walleyed pike, rock bass, blue gills, sun
fish and black bass were plentiful. Stony Lake and Portage were favorite
fishing lakes; the men always came home with a good catch. Later they found
Bass Lake where there was a great blue heron rookery. There were also frequent
trips to Leech lake where there was great walleyed pike fishing and guides to
help you find them. Father was fond of black bass fishing and frequently found
them in Thomas’ bay and Flower-pot. Occasionally I caught a nice bass off the point
south of our cabin. That point has been a good sunfish and rock bass spot for
many years. One summer in the sixties, Jack, Peggy, Roslyn Anne, and I caught a
nice mess of Crappies along the drop-off between our cabin and the Munneke's. I
caught most of them which baffled the rest of the fishermen in the boat. Guess
it was the bait I was using!
Fires have been one of the
greatest concerns of the beach residents. The first experience I remember was
during a cold spell when we were living in the small cabin. The pipe from the
cook-stove and the fireplace became overheated and the wood around the pipe
began to smolder. A fire brigade was assembled with people lined up to the lake
with buckets to pass to the men on the roof who quickly put the potential fire
out with very little damage. Later they rebuilt the chimney enclosing the pipe
in cement. Another time, during a very cold August when we had used the
fireplace in the big cabin for many days, the cement floor of the fire-box got
so hot the 2x6’s under the fireplace bed began to smolder. We were packing to
leave for home when we discovered the smoke seeping out around the base of the
fireplace on the outside. We again organized a fire brigade and were able to
cool off the smoldering wood. It was very fortunate we discovered it before the
fire reached the outside air when it would probably have burst into flame.
Another time, Father was burning brush up near our point by our family cabin. I
was helping him carry the brush to the fire when we found several little fires
about twenty feet from the stack of burning brush. Again, we had to rush to wet
the surrounding area! In the summer of 1922 or 1923 there were numerous brush
fires in the area. One day the lake people sent out an alarm that a fire was
threatening the south end of the lake. Father thought he should go to help
fight it. It was a very hot day--a storm brewer! Soon after he left we saw a
very ominous storm gathering across the lake. Father was in the little river
boat and Mother decided she should try to head him off since these storms bring
very heavy wind. She took my sister, Zelda, about four years old, and left me
with Kathryn, just a baby. As she ran up the path toward Munneke's cabin the
storm broke with all its fury. Trees crashed around her and she pushed Zelda to
the ground and laid on top of her. She lost her glasses to the wind. Meanwhile,
I struggled with canvas curtains on rollers on the front porch, finally hooking
them down. I still don't know where I got the strength to accomplish it because
the rollers were very heavy. A couple of poplars crashed near the house as I
fought the wind and my other sister was in the little back bedroom taking a
nap. I grabbed her out of the birch crib and crawled behind an old trunk in the
living room. That seemed to be the safest place if a tree should come down on
the house. Meanwhile, Father had beached the little craft and walked back to
the cabin to find four very frightened people. The best news was that the rain
had put out the fires and later Mother found her glasses in the path. That same
summer there was a fire between Ten Mile and Walker along the Scenic Highway
(old 19) that burned for days. On the upside, wild blueberries thrive on burned
over land. For several years after those fires there was an abundance of
luscious fat berries if you knew where to look.
Lightning is one of the
hazards of the forest. One year in the spring before we arrived, a "cold
bolt" struck a very tall white pine close to our cottage’s front porch. It
jumped to the base of the cabin traveling around the floor of the cabin,
melting nails as it went. The front porch shutters were then made of plastic
covered screen. The plastic was melted and the shutters were askew. Kerosene
lamp chimneys were knocked off and pans were scattered on the floor of the
kitchen. We have often wondered if we would have survived the bolt --our beds,
a beautiful brass bed and iron cots might have been very uncomfortable--even
lethal!
A couple summers ago, we
watched lightning strike a cabin across the lake, setting it on fire. I ran to
the Munneke's to call the fire department; they had the only telephone on the
beach. They were not at home but by the time I got there I heard the fire
engines from both Walker and Hackensack. The guest cabin was totally destroyed
but they were able to prevent the fire from spreading to the main house. That
fire was started by a lightning bolt that struck a TV antenna and then jumped
to the house.
During the
nineteen-thirties, when I was a counselor at Camp Danworthy, we had a summer in
which we suffered wicked storms and a radical lowering of the water level of
the lake. It was so low that the rocks along the ledge of Flowerpot bay were
exposed and the boulders along the reef at Ball's point reminded us to go way
around. The Hyde boys "helped" by stacking additional rocks to make
them even more visible. "Mama" Hyde was afraid of the water so the
boys never had a motor boat--just a little 3-person flat-bottom. They were not
aware of the increased hazard they were creating for the unwary pilots of the
motorboats crossing the reef. There was many a sheered pin on a propeller,
especially on the fine launches.
One of my reoccurring
nightmares during those drought years involved the drying up of Ten Mile Lake.
I would wake up in the night in a cold sweat. Now the level is controlled by
the Federal Dam near Leech Lake. Little Boy river flows out of Ten Mile,
through Birch Lake, reaches Leech, and finally into the mighty Mississippi.
Since transportation to the sea is of prime importance, the lakes that feed the
river must adjust to the needs of the shipping interests. When we were kids we
could walk along the shore between the cabins all the way to the Munnekes. This
is no longer possible since the lake level is kept so high. There is a gradual
eating away of the ice bank which undermines the vegetation, the big pines, and
birches along the shore. High winds speed up the process. Some lake residents
are building retaining walls to protect the banks and shoreline. I have loved a
leaning pine, a beautiful Norway, which started its leaning when I was very
young and now, finally, has found its resting place in the lake after a
struggle of over fifty years with the encroaching water. It was sad to watch it
give up its fight to the constantly lapping waves.
On the other hand, it has
been interesting to watch the change in the make-up of the surrounding forest.
When Father first landed on the beach, he had to chop his way through the alder
brush along the shore, then through the hazel brush and poplars to locate a
suitable building spot for the first cabin. The growth was so dense that Mother
warned me, a six-year old, not to venture beyond the clearing or into the
tamarack swamp behind the cabin. Gradually Father cleared out the under-brush
so we could see the birches and poplars that had taken over the woods after the
lumberjacks had cut the red and white pine of the virgin forest. The poplar is
a fast-growing, brittle tree that is frequently victim of the storms that sweep
across the lake. They are also a favorite food of the beaver. Slowly the little
seedling white and Norway pines have grown to majestic size. Some were of fair
size when we built the cabins but were scorned by the woodcutters as not being
suitable for cutting. Now they are creating a new beautiful forest.
I used to love to walk from
hummock to hummock in the mysterious tamarack swamp which stretched several
blocks behind the cottages. I think it was in the nineteen-forties that the
tamaracks began to die. Someone has told me a fatal disease swept through the
beautiful tamarack swamps of Minnesota killing most of the trees. Those dark,
dense, beautiful swamps are now open, wet meadows. A few of the trees are now
beginning to come back, either from the old roots or seedlings. But the once
thriving pitcher plants, Dutchman's pipe, and moccasin flowers are seldom
found. I often wonder if the primitive swamps will ever return.
The wildlife around the
cabins has also been fun to watch. We have shared the woods with an interesting
variety of creatures. Some we have never seen but have heard their spine
tingling calls, especially the timber wolf and coyote. We have seen the red fox
run across the trail and a doe casually feeding along the ice bank, silhouetted
against a flaming sunset as we sat mesmerized at our dining table by the
lakeside window, scarcely breathing and hoping the “postcard’ picture would be
there forever. One year a family of weasels lived in the woodshed attached to
the rear of the cabin. They did not cause any problems but another year a
mother skunk raised her family under the house, raiding the
"fishhole" where we cleaned our catch to feed her hungry youngsters.
Father moved the burial spot but she always seemed to find it the next night,
much to our discomfort. It was a great relief when she decided the young ones
were old enough to forage for themselves and left the sheltered home under
Mother's bedroom.
Lester and Katherine Munneke
tell of their odiferous experience with a friendly black and white kitty. Not
having inside plumbing, they have to dispose of the dishwater by throwing it
out the kitchen door. One night it was quite late and very dark when Katherine
finished the dishes. She opened the door and stepped outside flinging the large
dishpan of sudsy water with great dispatch. It soaked the unsuspecting kitty
who immediately retaliated with her own reprisal. The Munneke family home was
so saturated they were forced to retire for the night at a nearby motel. The
haunting perfume of the insulted skunk still remained the next morning,
reminding Katherine to look before she threw thereafter! One evening while we
were playing cards, Jack and I watched a pair of baby skunks play along the
shore by our dock. They were so cute we were tempted to join them but thought
it better to enjoy them through the window. For several years there was a mink
and silver fox farm near Hackensack that we visited. They had
"descented" kitties we were allowed to pet. That was the closest I
ever got to a baby skunk. Our album has a picture proving they were
"pet-able". Porcupines can be fun to watch too, but they can also be
destructive. In the winter when food is short they sometimes climb the white
pine trees to eat the tender bark at the top. Since they usually eat a ring
around the trunk, the porcupines often kill the new growth. To prevent this
destructive habit a wide strip of sheet aluminum can be wrapped around the
trunk a few feet above the ground to discourage their climbing to the top for a
succulent meal. One morning about daybreak, Jack woke to hear a strange sound.
He saw a dark head bobbing around at the front northwest window. In his
startled, sleepy state he thought a black man was trying to break in-- and his
first reaction was to wake me. Then as he watched, he saw it was a “porky”
trying to climb up the 2”x4"corner supports. However, it couldn't get a
good hold because of the windows and finally gave up, dropped to the ground,
and ambled of -- to Jack's great relief. Frisky, the family dog, had one
encounter with a porcupine and came home whimpering with a mouthful of quills.
It took nearly all day to remove the quills, but she never bothered another
porcupine.
Since we dredged out the
harbor behind our cottages we have had beavers build a large house behind my
sister’s (Kathryn) cabin. The beavers are particularly fond of poplar bark for
food and alder for building material. In 1978 we finally got permission from
the Department of Natural Resources and Dave Smith, the game warden, to have
the beavers moved and their very large home destroyed because it was blocking
the entrance to the harbor. They have toppled large poplars, leaving some
leaning on other trees like toothpicks crisscrossing each other and some
leaning precariously close to the cabins. They work quickly--we found one tree
cut overnight by Jack's bedroom window. Fortunately it dropped away from the
house, leaning into another tree, which frustrated the hungry beaver since he
only wanted the tender top branches. They are industrious little animals--
working hours and hours to build their homes, tugging their large branches many
blocks to their chosen home-site.
Mr. Friday, who dredged out
our harbor originally, came with his big scoop to remove the house after the
beaver had been moved by the game warden the previous winter. He threw the
tangled mass of sticks and mud on the shore. We later retrieved some of the
larger wood to burn in the fireplace.
At the time of this writing
the beavers are back building another mansion, and again cleaning out our
timber, even some of our cherished birches. Our neighbors, the Flaths, have
salvaged some of our trees around our cabin for our Franklin stove and their
wood-burning furnace. What to do about the beavers and their squatting in our
harbor entrance is a moot question.
One of our favorite little
animals of the forest is the chipmunk. They live in little burrows in the
ground and sometimes make nests in the garage, much to Jack's distress. They
are friendly and are easy to tame. Lester Munneke has a pet "chippy"
that will come to him when he sits on the bench, climb on his shoulder, or
crawl into his pocket for a peanut. Two years ago, when we had a 14" rain
during their nesting season, they were nearly wiped out as the mothers and
babies were drowned in the holes. The only ones to survive around our house
were probably the squatters in our garage.
One year we had an over
abundance of snow-shoe rabbits. We had never seen them before that I can
remember~ but that year they were everywhere ---literally hundreds of them. But
since that we have not seen them at all during the summer. We don't know why.
Lester and Katherine Munneke
usually come to the lake early in June and stay until September. They have a
black bear who often visits around their cabin. Katherine has seen him at night
on her trips to the outdoor comfort station. We have heard animals prowling in
our garbage cans in the garage and suspect it may be the same bear although I
have never been courageous enough to investigate the marauders. Lester said
they have seen a female and her two cubs saunter across the lane out toward the
highway. We found tracks at the sand pit that greatly intrigued our house
guest, Edith Moss, in the summer of 1977.
One year we had a large
number of what I think were voles. They looked like very small moles but were
too tiny. I looked them up in our animal dictionary and decided that must have
been what they were. They lived along the lane between our cabin and the
Helschers’. Occasionally there are muskrats in the harbor. Then too, we have
seen mink crossing the walkway to the front dock. Once Father saw a flying
squirrel and we often see both red and gray squirrels. For many years Albert
Thomas let his cows wander through the woods. We could hear them coming as one
of them was belled-- we really didn't appreciate their visits! But I used to
like to follow their trails back to Thomas's place.
Visiting Thomas's place was
an experience. Albert's father, we thought, had killed a very large black bear
on the ice one winter. We later learned Hattie, his daughter, had bought the
bear, which was stuffed in an upright standing position and placed it in the
middle of their living room. Jack visited Albert a few years ago and it was
still there, in a very dilapidated, moth eaten condition. Mother Thomas had
been a widow for many years when we first started coming to the lake. Some one
told us her husband liked his alcohol and was killed by a train not far from
their house on Thomas' bay. Albert had a brother, Robert, and two sisters that
I remember. Hattie was a nurse and Margaret was a school teacher. I think there
may have been another sister but I cannot remember her name. Our blueprints of
the property state that Albert and Robert were ax-men for the surveying crew.
Albert still lives in the old home but his wife, Lydia, died several years ago.
Margaret lives in Hackensack.
Later the Christies settled
across the lake on the sand beach where the Kubo's now live. We bought our milk
and ice from them for many years after we could no longer get it from Mother
Thomas. The Kubos also had a nice garden that we enjoyed when they had enough
produce to sell.
Dr. Munneke, a Presbyterian
minister (Lester's father), usually took his vacation in August. We always had
church when he was on the beach...not much of a vacation for him, I'm sure, but
everyone felt we should ask him to conduct a service. During the rest of the
summer we had Sunday school, meeting in different cabins each week. Someone had
given us folding chairs with advertising for Piedmont Cigarettes. I think they
had been given to the YMCA in Boone and were passed on to us since the
advertising was not considered suitable for the boys attending the Y. We also
had songbooks that we enjoyed. I particularly remember singing "The Little
Brown Church In The Wildwood" because it seemed so appropriate. On one of
our trips home to San Antonio, we stopped in Iowa to see the little brown
church where it was written. I celebrated my sixteenth birthday that year.
These Sunday services at the lake were well attended; sometimes thirty or forty
people were there. In the last few years the Munnekes have invited the
residents on the beach to worship with them when their son Bob, a Lutheran
minister, brings his Luther League from Lake City, Minn. for an outing. We feel
so close to God when we worship in such a beautiful place.
After I finished college in
1930, I counseled at Camp Danworthy, a girls camp owned by Miss Elizabeth Fish.
She was the principal of the girls’ Vocational High School in Minneapolis. Two
of her associates were Miss Agnes Crounse, vice principal at the high school,
and Miss Annabelle Thomas from West High School. Miss Thomas was a friend of
the Hyde family and when Miss Fish was looking for a craft teacher for the camp
Mrs. Hyde told her she knew that I had just finished my degree in design and
crafts at CIA (College of Industial Arts in Denton, Tex.).That winter Miss Fish
contacted me in San Antonio, offering me the job, sight unseen! She wanted me
to bring some campers from San Antonio but I was unable to fulfill her request.
Minnesota was too far away and an unknown area to our Texas girls. Most of the
campers in San Antonio either went to Tennessee or the hill country of Texas.
Anyway, she sent me the money to travel to camp--it was during the depression
of the thirties and I was lucky to have the money to buy a ticket.
Danworthy is situated at the
south end of Long Lake which is part of a chain starting with Lake May near
Walker, then Long Lake, Third lake, Fourth, Fifth and Sixth lake. It is a
beautiful setting for a camp. I loved the camp, the girls, and my work and went
back every summer until I married in 1940. Of course I returned to Ten Mile on
my days off and for several years stayed in our cottage with some of my camp
friends for a few weeks before it was time to return to Minneapolis. During the
second summer at camp Miss Fish offered me a job teaching in the new vocational
high school just being built across from the Curtis Hotel in downtown
Minneapolis. Of course I accepted and taught there until the summer Jack and I
were married in Minneapolis. I decided to be married in Minneapolis at
Westminster Presbyterian Church since I had worked there eight years, all my
friends were there, and Jack had never seen the lake. So we were married there
in the chapel on June 14,1940 with all my family there, including aunts,
uncles, cousins, Jack's sister, Margaret and husband Bill Kirkpatrick from
Pittsburgh, and Mother Allensworth, who drove from Texas with Jack. After the
wedding she left with Margaret to visit Pittsburgh. We were married at 4:00 PM
and headed toward Ten Mile for our honeymoon. Mother and Father had opened the
cabin and left a boat on the sand beach by the Christie's landing. We arrived
at the lake about 11:00 PM. It was a beautiful, moonlit night with a light
breeze. Jack had never rowed a boat but naturally he didn't think he should let
his bride row him across the lake on their wedding night. With a little
prompting and piloting we beached safely at the cabin dock. The next morning I
told him we always took a "chocolate" dip before breakfast. It was
early and the mist was still rising on the lake when we ventured into the
invigoratingly chilly water. It was ten years before I ever got him back to Ten
Mile. Katherine Munneke also told us about their honeymoon trip to Ten Mile.
They arrived late at night, as we did, but it was very windy and very dark.
Katherine was afraid of the water so they slept on the sandy beach that night.
My sister, Katherine, has also written her memories of the early years which I hope will dovetail into this for the benefit of our children and grandchildren. It has been fun reliving those early days at our beautiful summer home. My Grandmother Steinke loved it so. One time I asked her why she loved it so. Her reply was "Sometime I’ll be in the sunset!"